The first model Phoenix RC is making is the well known Gaui 330X and from the beta testing it seems like it is a good implementations already, you can definitely get the quadrocopter feeling from this model simulation.
Go to http://www.phoenix-simv3.com/default.asp for more information
A video and some screenshot from Phoenix RC simulator with the new Gaui 330X:
We Build an Ignition System...
For example: a 2-cylinder engine MOUSE HOUSE with a standard ZENOAH CDI magnetic ignition. One exception is the “Heilbronner-Bub” (this engine I do not consider as a 2-cylinder since it is a coupled engine… without putting its usefulness into question), this engine is built both narrower and longer.
The width of the 2-cylinder engines (and also our 3- and 4 cylinder engines) often makes the installation of cats impossible, as there is often not enough space in the skids. And even in monos there is less space left when two engines are arranged side-by-side. A superior solution is needed and this better solution is the “electronic ignition”.
Solution: Electronic Ignition
There are several commercial electronic ignitions obtainable on the market. Personally, I was not attracted to the presented solutions since they do not fully exploit the possibilities of the engine. In addition a monitoring of the receiver system is not implemented and I am not aware of any commercial systems that have adjustable ignition maps, which are programmable by the user without requiring a computer. The known commercially available ignitions do not have a display and therefore they do not display engine speed information, although the electronics does measure such data.
The book of requirements
Firstly, there is the book of requirements that contains the specifications and functionality of the ignition system. The following features are within the task list:
Short sidestep: The development in the automotive industry is done in several stages.
XP: eXperimentation Phase (is the concept suitable to be developed for series? Parts are produced and assembled experimentally, in very small quantities.)
AP: Application Phase (does the system work in conjunction with the periphery? Some parts are already series level, small quantities, parts are partially produced on prototype machines.)
CP: Confirmation Phase (does the system function with production parts under production conditions and all possible states?)
XP: The Experimentation Phase
The ignition system and speed sensor are installed in my NoMercy with a 260 ZENOAH engine (slightly tuned up from RS). The housing is sourced from an electronic distributor, the circuit board is produced in the laboratory, the sensor is already one construction stage ahead (AP).
Here we tested the basic functions, usually in dry conditions with a running engine. The first endurance tests were performed on an engine test rig. The tests were performed on water, supported by our saving boater Daniel “Seewolf”.
Ignition systemHowever, we always had dropouts after 50 m. Until we finally established the cause i.e. from an old FUTABA 1024PCM. This proved that the ignition stops the engine reliably, as soon as no reliable receiver signal is detected or disrupted. After the conversion of the system to 2.4 GHz with CORONA- components everything worked properly and reliably. Later we realized that the 40 MHz-module is suffering from old age, according to a web-blog, I was not the only person with a similar problem.
AP: The Application Phase
The housing was assembled from aluminum profiles. However, the circuit board is already produced in series quality. In this phase we fixed the 10 prior programmed ignition maps and wrote the 54-page manual that describes all functions in detail. The various safety shutdown functions were tested under practical conditions and thus validated.
Furthermore, the software was developed in the application phase. For example: How should the RC-supervision be implemented in detail (parameter)? How does the engine-stuttering work in the water? What are high-quality values for the ignition maps (pre-ignition angle depending on engine speed)?
CP: The Confirmation phase
On April 2010 we started the CP: The housing was machined from solid and red anodized. The red Plexiglas cover was machined fitted with special glue. The other parts were already from standard production. Even in this phase we optimized the values of the ignition maps and did some fine tuning on various functions. The unit was sent to an EMC-laboratory to obtain the “CE”-mark.
The first engines were equipped with the ignition system and distributed to a few sample customers for testing.
The ignition systems are adapted to all 260 ZENOAH and the similar derivates (for example RCMK and Chung Yang) with an assembly kit that I offer on my homepage www.matho-powertrain.de
The ignition has its own homepage: www.power-spark.de
The POWER SPARK ignition system consists of the following components:
• ignition box with all necessary cables and connector for sensor module
• sensor module with cable and connector
• programming magnet in red shrink hose
• fuse with fuse folder
• operating manual
The POWER SPARK is available in the following versions:
• 1-cylinder with or without RC-monitoring features
• 2-cylinder with or without RC-monitoring features
• 4-cylinders (double-twin) / (double-boxer) with or without RC-monitoring features
• the 4-cylinder-versions can also be used for my 3-cylinder engine, since it’s a “one and a-half-twin” concept.
The assembly kit for ZENOAH or RCMK consists of:
• flywheel aluminum (kit 1 & kit3) or brass (kit 2) with assembled magnet for speed sensor
• sensor bracket (silver or black)
• spaces for sensor bracket (silver or black)
• Special versions for rear exhaust engines for racing (FSR-x use).
Easy Operation
The installation of the ignition system is in our view self-explanatory.
The start-up is quite simple:
If no RC-monitoring is desired, then simply power the ignition and start the engine. If everything is connected correctly, the engine starts - due to the more powerful spark- no later than 3 times.
Practical experience:
The original ZENOAH engine (tuned slightly) in my NoMercy turned about 500 rpm higher than the standard magneto ignition (load condition). Reason: the ignition spark is more powerful. Hence, the combustion at high speeds is enhanced. For the 3- and 4-cylinder engines it looks even better: with the magneto ignition the energy of the red primary ignition coil had to be distributed to the two grey secondary coils, resulting in a weaker spark. Now, the motors can finally show their full potential.
The ZENOAH had to be further revised because of operation time, as an interim solution we installed a RCMK-based engine with Michi-Manz-tuning and a brass flywheel. As a consequence, the engine functions much better and works with 2 Graupner 76 propellers, which was previously unthinkable. Nevertheless the weight of the NoMercy is too much for a single 26 ccm plus splitter gearbox, so the logical consequence is: installation of our 2-cylinder engine.
Currently, we are building a 30 kg Mono with our RAT HOUSE and the POWER SPARK ignition, when we are finished, we look forward to reporting back our results.
What works very well is the splutter function that is activated when the battery voltage is low. Even in the fray, if several boats whisk the water the same time, one can see very well that the rooster tail interrupts shortly and then resumes. Below the selected stutter speed (in my case 11000 rpm) the engine operates as normal, so one can ride to shore normally.
Right now we have finished adding more function to the ignition system:
Speed dependent output for pump, throttle, signal etc.Switching output (flashing or non-flashing) to signal engine stop (blink a LED)operating time counteralternating display of battery voltage and maximum achieved engine speed automatically after engine stop (adjustable)www.POWER-SPARK.de
and
www.MATHO-powertrain.de
That is absolutely WILD!!!! Beautiful workmanship! Sounds awesome! I would love to try running something like that. Thank you for sharing! 
An alternative to the traditional thottle linkages...the PCM Direct Throttle...
*This article was originally written in 2003. Somehow it was accidentally removed from the site so I dug it up from the archives and re-published it due to some recent interest in such throttle assemblies. Unfortunately, the larger images were lost. M.L.
Are you like me when it comes to servo linkages? Like to keep it simple with as little free play as possible? Well the Direct Throttle linkage by Patrick Mulvany might be just what you're looking for!
After seeing a picture of one of Pat's Direct Throttle linkages, I decided to contact him and order a kit to give it a try. If you like to run open servos in your boats (servos outside of the radio box) this kit is perfectly suited to this application (although it can also be used with radio box setups). The kit was shipped promptly and arrived here in due form with complete installation instructions.
The parts consist or a carburetor adapter, a servo adapter, a 1/8" flex cable, and stainless steel hardware (bolts, nuts and set screws). The adapters are machined aluminum. Installation is quite simple. Fit the carb adapter to the carburetor's butterfly shaft and secure in place using the supplied set-screws. When ordering the kit, make sure to let Pat know which carburetor you are using and preferable specify the butterfly shaft's size so that your kit can be machined to proper size. The fit on mine was perfect! The servo adapter is made to fit on a round servo horn, so you will need to have one for your specific servo. From the looks of it, an "X" servo horn could also be used, but the round horn makes the setup stronger.
Simply lay the adapter over the round servo horn to find matching holes. Drill out the holes in the horn to accept the 2-56 screws. At this point, I had the horn off the servo. I left the horn's attachment screw in the horn and secured the servo adapter to the horn using the (2) 2-56 screws and nuts supplied. Next install the horn on the servo and see if the nuts and bolt ends clear the servo body when servo is moved. If not, simply file off the ends until they clear. I used a standard Airtronics servo and no filing was required. The servo adapter is drilled straight through, thus allowing you to tighten the servo horn screw to hold it in place on the servo (if you left it in there before putting on the servo adapter, otherwise you can't get the screw in). You could also just leave the servo horn on the servo and fix the servo adapter to it, either way works fine.
Now is the time to select the place to install your servo, and cut the flex cable to the proper length. The servo will have to be mounted with servo horn and carburetor butterfly control rod facing each other, and lined up as closely as possible. The beauty of this kit is that even if they don't line up perfectly, the flex cable will make up for it (within limits of course).
There are many ways of cutting the flex cable. A rotary tool with cutting disc seems to work fine. Tin both ends of the cable with solder once they are cut to the proper length. Insert the cable into both adapters (carb and servo) and secure in place with the set-screws. A thread sealant should be used to prevent the set-screws from loosening during operation. One feature I really liked about this kit is that all adapters use double set-screws. The hold is very solid.
That's it! Installation is complete. All that's left is to set your servos direction correctly, and adjust end points to allow for the proper opening and closing of the carburetor.
When setting up throttle servo at more than 6" away from the carburetor, Pat suggests using some 5/32" K&S brass tubing to support the flex cable. He also notes that for radio box installations the brass tubing can be used to exit the flex from the box. The tube is sealed to the box with epoxy, and a piece of silicone tubing is used as an added seal between the flex and brass tube.
This is a very innovative way of addressing throttle linkage, and the response is, as the name states, "direct". Little to no freeplay in the linkage. It will fit virtually any boat setup and is particularly well suited for exposed throttle installations, since mounting the servo to the boat's stringer yields an almost perfect alignment with the servo.
As with all reviews, we must try and address the ups and downs of things. The only real downside I can see for the PCM throttle linkage is that you can not throttle the carburetor manually since it's positively locked to the servo...so to start and test an engine, you need your radio transmitter. This is the same for all positive movement throttle assemblies however. On the up side, this type of linkage is much less prone to runaway boats due to carburetor stickage...in most cases it will allow to shut down the boat even if the carburetor butterfly sticks a bit. So in short, a little bit of convenience is sacrificed for extra safety. Overall, a very good throttle linkage alternative depending on your installation and priorities.
Additional information:
Price: Contact for up-to-date pricing
Shipping method: US Postal Service, domestic and international
Contact Information:
Patrick C. Mulvany
Email: pcmboats@aol.com
Happy Boating!
